South African Designer On Paris Fashion Week Runway Debut, Eyes Luxury Expansion

South African designer Laduma Ngxokolo marked a milestone for African fashion on Monday as MaXhosa Africa staged its first runway show on the official Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) Paris Fashion Week calendar.

The Spring/Summer 2026-2027 collection, titled Izihlwele Zivumile–an isiXhosa phrase translated by the FHCM as “the ancestors have co-signed”–was presented at the South African ambassador’s residence in Paris, showcasing the label’s ambitions to grow beyond its celebrated knitwear roots into a broader African luxury house.

“We showcased 54 looks today, and as usual we try to diversify our fabrics as much as we can, even though we specialize in knitwear,” Ngxokolo told FORBES AFRICA. “Knitwear is our strongest language, but textiles are also very broad. I think we’ve only showcased half of what we came with before. Some of the fabrics that we play around with are silk, chiffon, organza, organdy, cotton and various other worlds of materials.

“This is also our first time showcasing footwear that is proudly from our brand, and we are happy that we will be officially expanding into accessories because we know very well that that’s a very important category when it comes to building a portfolio of a well-established luxury brand.”

The collection also featured upcycled eyewear and accessories by Kenyan artist Cyrus Kabiru, adding a pan-African element to the Paris runway show.

Renowned South African musician Sjava performed live during the show, dressed in traditional Zulu regalia.

“I never thought in my life I would ever be here in Paris wearing umgingqo (traditional Zulu beaded waistband) and ibheshu (traditional rear apron worn by warriors) and with MaXhosa at Paris Fashion Week,” said Sjava to FORBES AFRICA while looking at the details of the design. “It’s like a dream come true, you know, and I’m glad that I’m here with a brand that’s African, with a brand that is South African.”

Ngxokolo said the Paris appearance was about translating international visibility into long-term commercial growth for the 16-year-old design house, which has dressed celebrities from Beyoncé to Alicia Keys.

“We want to come here and do business and get good distribution deals that are permanent,” he said. “We’ve been doing groundwork for the past six seasons now, and one day we shall be well represented in terms of flagship stores and distribute an alternative that a lot of people have been waiting for.”